Tuesday, June 28, 2016




The first one may seem counterintuitive at first

When we’re talking about high speed action it seems like manual focus would be impossible. Creating a focus trap then shooting continuously while your subject moves across that point can give you the results you were looking to your autofocus mode for.

Stopping Action

There’s a very good reason (actual more than one) the best sports, motorsports and nature photographers use a very high-end DSLR camera: They need the best AF system available to help maintain focus of fast-moving subjects and objects and stop their action and be in focus. Even then, many of these pros often use manual focus. Most of us don’t shoot with those kinds of cameras, so whenever you want to capture action images, you can’t rely totally on the AF. Plus, the AF could actually fool you into thinking the moving object is in focus, and then change the focus point as you depress the shutter.
When using manual focus for action shots, a good method is to pre-focus on a spot in front of the subject/object, and then capture it when it moves into that space. This may take some practice, but you’ll like the results better than what AF will produce.

No Contrast

When the tones, textures or colors of the subject and other objects and areas in a photo are the same AF is often unable to distinguish between what you want in focus and whatever else is in the photo that registers similarly, in terms of contrast value. For example, a black dog against a dark wall. Typically, you must manually focus on the dog to ensure it will be in focus and not the wall.

Low Light

Whenever the light is low—sunrise, sunset, twilight, night, cloudy days, dark interiors—an AF system can have difficulty locking focus simply because the environment is not producing enough light or there is not enough reflecting off surfaces. Any photography of the night skies also requires manual focus.

Close to Your Subject

During close-up or macro photography, your lens is very close to the subject, which narrows the depth-of-field to just inches or less. This shooting situation is often a challenge for AF, so manual focus is required to achieve the most accurate focus point on your macro subject.

Using Hyperfocal Distance

Study the best landscape photography and you’ll notice that both the foreground and background (and, of course, all the space between them) are sharply in focus. To achieve this, may require determining the hyperfocal distance. This is another instance where AF could be fooled, and refocus your image as you trip the shutter.

Something to think about as you take your masterpiece photos.  I am sure some of you have already ran into these problems and wondered "why is my autofocus not working?"  Now you know.  With recent advancements in the autofocus cameras, some of these situations are disappearing.   Thanks to the camera manufactures for making it easier for us to do the job of composition rather than have to worry about focusing......haha.


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This week's Photos are absolutely amazing.  I find it amazing the quality of artwork that is out there.  And here is this week's most incredible list of work:

1-  One of the most beautiful photos of Niagara Falls I have ever seen.  A long 10 second exposure and the angle I have not seen before, and you have a masterpiece.
Niagara Falls. After all these years and many many visits it still fills me with awe. 10 second exposure. 

2- With all the terrible flooding going on in West Virginia, it is nice to see something beautiful coming out of that area.  A professional photographer posts a beautiful picture of West Virginia that will reflect just how beautiful it can be there, and will be again:
In the wake of the recent flooding, my heart goes out to the people of beautiful West Virginia today.

As you might know from past sharing, I love West Virgina. So I looked for a West Virginia photograph in my portfolio that would be most hope-inspiring in this tragic time. I had posted this one just over a year ago. And while I have ot
...hers that are still waiting to be shared, I really felt that this photograph best represented my wish for the skies to clear and the peace and serenity of the people of West Virginia to be restored.

If anyone from West Virgina feels they have their finger on the pulse of which charity most visibly has feet on the ground and is providing tangible help right now, please message me and let me know as soon as possible.

And I urge everyone reading this to find the charity of their choice and make a donation to help those in West Virginia whose lives have been devastated by the recent flooding.

"Sunset at Lindy Point in Beautiful West Virginia."

Photo by Steven Max Photography

3-  An artist working on his photos in Photoshop and Lightroom, has been working on this photo he took in Venice.  Fill in the shadows, tone down the lights, do some magic here and there and you create the perfect picture:
"  A nights stroll in Venice"

Photo and work enhancement done by:   Robert Schmalle

4- Have you ever tried double exposures?  How about double exposures on a landscape photo?  Now this is not normally something  somebody would do, but, the end is result is spectacular.  The details of how this photo was taken is listed below.  But, this certainly makes this week's "Photos of the Week".

Two shots, 1, 300 second exposure for the foreground and a 15second exposure for the sky for tunnel view without any moon around 4am.
Photos taken by Marion Williams

5-  Seems like we have been highlighting long exposures so much lately, and they are very beautiful, but once in a while a fast shutter speed just catches the moment just right.  In this photo, the waves caught up in the air, birds in flight, just at the right moment creates a great winner for this week's Photo of the week.
Fly in the storm........ by Bill Preston

6-  Sunset  time can also lead to twilight.  What is twilight?  It is when the sunset time ends, I believe, when the colors are really different and the colors are richer, more deeper, and are usually missed by photographers.  Hail to the photographer who waits beyond the sunset for THIS:

Twilight erupts over an ancient bristlecone pine. I may have ‘accidentally’ pointed Steve Turner in the wrong direction, causing him to miss the beautiful color.”
Photo taken by Miles Morgan


That is this week's Photos of the week.  I wanted to try a different format, rather than just throw up a bunch of pictures.  But, really give you my opinion why these photos were chosen.  It's amazing how many photos I pass up until I find one that catches my eye.  Then I find something really unique about this photo and feel that we can learn from the photo as well as be entertained by viewing it.  Until next week.

Remember to share this with the world.

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Monday, June 27, 2016



1- Canon EOS 6D Mark II, and Canon new DSLR coming in 2017



1- Canon EOS 6D Mark II and New Canon DSLR Coming in 2017

“PS” Canon EOS 6D Mark II
The upcoming Canon EOS 6D Mark II full frame DSLR camera is expected to be announced in February 2017 and this new camera will be released as early as March/April. And the new 6D Mark II will have its own sensor, the previous rumor said Canon EOS 6D Mark II will be the first Android-based camera from Canon. The price of Canon EOS 6D Mark II camera body will be around $1,500. And the Canon 6D Mark II will move upmarket “slightly” and it will be “Slightly” more professional & expensive than the Canon 6D.
Canon EOS 6D Mark II Rumored Specifications:
  • 24mp Full Frame CMOS
  • 1.5 stops better than Canon 6D at higher ISO
  • Low-light autofocus (centre point) at -5 EV
  • More AF points than the current Canon EOS 6D
  • First Android-based camera from Canon.
  • Dual-pixel autofocus technology
  • Touchscreen, LCD size same as current Canon 6D
  • Built-in Wi-Fi
  • Built-in GPS
  • Built-in NFC
  • Wireless battery
  • Price around $1,500
  • Official announcement around February, 2017
In addition, Canon will introduce a completely new EOS DSLR lineup in 2017 and this new Canon DSLR has never been displayed in the past one/two years. So, currently we still know nothing about this new Canon DSLR: Full Frame DSLR or APS-C DSLR?

Fujifilm Medium Format Camera Coming with 3 New Lenses

Hasselblad already announced the world’s first medium format mirrorless camera “Hasselblad X1D-50c”. The Hasselblad X1D-50c features a 50MP full frame sensor (from Sony) and it is compatible with all the existing Hasselblad medium format lenses. Now Fuji has to announce something new to compete with Hasselblad.
And, Fujifilm is indeed working on a medium format system and the system has already gotten the green light from upper management. This info is confirmed by one of their top Japanese sources. According to the report from FujiRumors, Fujifilm will release their medium format camera with three new lenses. Currently, the details of these new Fuji products are still unknown. The previous rumor said Fujifilm medium format camera will be available in 2017 and it will feature a 50MP medium format sony sensor, just like the Pentax 645Z. And a new Fujifilm medium format camera, if priced somewhere between the Pentax 645D and the Pentax 645Z, will be a huge deal.

The Price of Sigma sd Quattro: $799, Shipping on July 7, 2016

Sigma officially announced the pricing and availability of the new Sigma sd Quattro mirrorless camera, Sigma sd Quattro with 30mm 1.4 Art lens bundle and Sigma EF-630 Electronic Flash.
Sigma sd Quattro Mirrorless Camera Key Features:
  • 29MP APS-C Foveon X3 Quattro CMOS Sensor
  • Dual TRUE III Imaging Processing Engine
  • Sigma SA Lens Mount
  • 2.36m-Dot Electronic Viewfinder
  • 3.0″ 1.62m-Dot Main LCD & Sub Monitor
  • Phase & Contrast-Detect Hybrid AF System
  • Super-Fine Detail Exposure Mode
  • ISO 6400 and 3.6 fps Continuous Shooting
  • Quick Set Button; Lock Switch
  • Focus Peaking; Lossless Compressed Raw

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Photo by Lanny Cottrell

We all take sunset photos, don't we.  We see that magnificent colors just shooting at us over the horizon, giving us that great shot of color.  Who wouldn't take a few great shots of sunset photos.  But, after you see one sunset after another, sometimes you can actually get bored of them.  What can you do to make those hundreds of sunset photos more interesting?  Here it is:

Yes, true, isn't when you think about it.  A beautiful sunset with something in the foreground of the sunset. I am going to throw out a couple of pictures from the collection of "Photos of the Week" and you tell me if these sunset photos just make the photo so much  more interesting:
Photographer unknown

Photo taken by : Sasin Tipchai

Now, imagine these two photos above, or even the top photo without the objects in the foreground.  They are dark, no detail, but, they frame the sunset in the top photo, in the others, they tell a story with color.  Color my story.  That was our subject yesterday. If you had someone look at a variety of photos, their eyes would be drawn to the ones with the vibrant colors.  Now, here is the question of the day, and be truthful with yourself:  If you had a gallery of photos, would most people be drawn to the photos of just sunsets, or sunsets with a silhouette in them that tell a story, or a silhouette that is used for framing the sunset?  9 out 10 people prefer some subject material in their sunset photos. 

By:  Danny Eitreim: 

We previously discovered that the pretty colors in a sunset aren’t always enough. A winning sunset photo needs a star. In today’s lesson we’ll discuss adding silhouettes to get better photographs of the sun.

In previous articles, we have mentioned that the star could be an interesting palm tree, a seagull flying by, or basically anything. The gorgeous colors are the backdrop to our star, not the focus of the photo. But, much like our regular non-sunset landscape photos, the most effective star is a person—people like looking at people! You will get the viewer more easily engaged in a photo where there are people being shown.

In a sunset photograph there’s two ways to add a person. In silhouette showing no detail and the traditional route that shows full detail. Today’s sunset photography photo tip will discuss adding a silhouetted person or other subject. The principles are valid no matter what your “star” is. Done well, the end result can be one of the most exquisite photographs you could create.

When adding a silhouette, the key element to keep in mind is that you are adding a shape, not a person (or bird or tree). Your shape will be pure black with no detail. In sunset photography, getting the pure black shape with no detail is pretty basic. In our earlier discussions, we learned that if we take our meter readings from the sky—everything else in our sunset photo is going to be underexposed and black. Ta-daaa!

photo by Rachel Titiriga

Previously, our concern was to bring detail into the dark areas, now we just let them go dark. To add a silhouette, the first step is to meter from the sky, not the person. If you meter from the person, your camera will make a mighty attempt at setting an exposure to show detail. In other words, you have to take the camera off automatic. Meter for the sky and then re-compose to put your “star” in the correct place in the photo. Easy.

The second concern we have in adding a silhouette is actually harder to get right. Remember, you’re adding a shape and everything but the sky is black with no detail. Including the ground. When you add your shape, it has to “read” correctly. By “read” I mean when someone looks at your photo, they must be able to instantly tell what it is. If your subject is standing in front of some other object, like a palm tree, rock or whatever, the silhouetted shapes will blend together and distort the image.

photo by Manfred Moitzi

This idea is hard to put in words, but easy to understand. I’m sure you have seen photos where the silhouettes blended together and neither looks right. A person with a palm tree growing out of their head, a palm tree with a seagull’s wing sticking out of the trunk and so on. Be sure that there is nothing intersecting with your silhouetted shape, including the ground. I frequently see silhouettes where the top half of the model is in silhouette, but the bottom half is lost in the ground. You may have to shoot up at your star from a slightly lower vantage point to avoid this sort of blending.

The third factor to consider is the shape itself. Not only do you have to watch out for your silhouette not reading correctly because it blends with others, it can blend with itself too! Arms crossing in front of the body or hanging (with no gaps) along the sides, legs together and so on. To get an effective silhouette, the pose is vital, more so than in a normal photo of this person. The fact that she is a pretty girl doesn’t matter in this case. In a silhouette, no one is going to be able to tell what she looks like.

photo by Julian Garduno

Take photo examples from magazines and color them with a black magic marker. Would that pose “read” and be effective if that was all you could see of the person? Hats and other clothing could dramatically alter the shape and look weird in silhouette. It may look like a tiara in the wedding photos, but in silhouette, it looks like devil’s horns sticking out of her head. Study various poses for their shapes and find several you can use when you are creating silhouettes. Add them to your notebook so you will always have them at hand when the situation arises.

Silhouettes are not only effective in sunset photography, but also at weddings. For example, pose the couple in silhouette in front of a stained glass window. Or, at the door of the church with the light from outside silhouetting them.

Practice today’s landscape photography photo tip on how to get better sunset photography by including silhouettes. There are many times when a silhouette is just the thing you need to separate you from the crowd, its worth learning how to do them well.

About the Author: Dan Eitreim writes for ontargetphototraining.com. He has been a professional photographer in Southern California for over 20 years. His philosophy is that learning photography is easy if you know a few tried and true strategies
Thanks also to PictureCorrect for supplying this article.


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Saturday, June 25, 2016


Photo by Raquel Salas Photography

The answer:   COLOR !!

In today's world of photography, it is true that our eyes are drawn to those photos that have a certain color in them, no matter what the color is, but the more brilliant, bright colors seem to just draw us to those photos.  How can you put those colors in your portraits?  In your landscape photos?  Or in any type of photography that you do? 

Let's bring in a professional who has done some research on this and learn:

By:  Tedric Garrison:

Color can be a dominant element in photography, but not always for the better. If you use color sloppily, just because it’s there, you have missed its real power. Back in the days of black and white, every image had to stand on its own merits. A red rose, for example, was not automatically thought of as a passionate shot, because there was no color involved. You had to stop and think, “What makes a rose passionate?” You had to use all the elements and principles of design to make a shot work. Technically, you still do. But when color enters into the equation, it’s very easy to let it do all the work for you.

“Kiss Rose” captured by PictureSocial member Anthony Louis Photography

We’ve all heard things like: “Wow, that’s a great red sunset.” Or, “I love that cool blue in your waterfall.” The question still remains — would they have liked your shot if there was no color in it? Don’t get me wrong; I’m all for color, but I consider it a great supporting actor, not the star of the show. If the only thing you can state about a particular shot is that you love the colors, then you are guilty of being sloppy with color.

That having been said, far and away the most powerful force of color is its emotional impact. In a novel by Irving Stone called “The Origin,” Charles Darwin says, “Green is the most restful and satisfying of all colors.” In that same novel, Dr. Adam Sedwick replies, “You’re right; green is the color to unravel the knots of life’s rope. Blue is colder, red more explosive, yellow turbulent . ."

“Golden Blue Tailed Hummingbird” captured by PictureSocial member Felix Leon"

The first mistake that most photographers make when working with color is to assume that it is the most important factor — even to the exclusion of basic composition. I’m sorry, my friend, but that is wrong. Regardless of how vivid or exciting a color is, that in and of itself does not mean it will be a great photograph.

Ideally, a photograph should have one dominant color. Additional colors should appear subordinate to and supportive of the main color. Remember that different colors evoke different emotions. Some are positive, some are negative, depending on the viewer’s perspective. If you want to send a clear message in you image, you should strongly consider a dominant color.

“Ballerinet” captured by PictureSocial member Andika Kamal

As we have already mentioned, red is often associated with passion and romance. But keep in mind that it can also bring up thoughts of pain and anger. If you want to tap into the subconscious mind of your viewer, then you need to be aware of many of the associations that people have with color.

Photo captured by PictureSocial member Laura Matkute

For example, in the United States, the color white is often associated with weddings. A bright, colorful cheerful event, right? In Korea, white is worn at funerals. That color is associated with death. If you are a M*A*S*H fan, you will remember this lesson when Max Klinger offered his Korean bride-to-be a beautiful white wedding dress. He didn’t exactly get the response he was expecting.

“Sad Bride” captured by PictureSocial member Bergina Leka

Here is a partial list of some of the things that we often associate with different colors. Remember to keep cultural and family history in mind:
  • Red = passion and romance or violence and anger
  • Yellow = joy and intelligence or criticism and fear
“T and E” captured by PictureSocial member Laura Matkute

  • Blue = peace and harmony or fear and depression
  • Orange = confidence and energy or slowness and pain (fire)
  • Purple = royalty and religion or bruised and beaten
  • Green = growth and soothing or envy and greed
  • Black = strong and committed or evil and death
  • White = purity and goodness or cold and distant

  • A photograph that has a dominant color has a greater chance of sticking in the viewer’s memory—if it was taken correctly to begin with. In other words, having a dominant color will not make up for poor composition. But if you already have a winner—good composition, good lines, rule of thirds, framing, etc.—then the dominant color becomes the icing on the cake. If someone walks away from your image with a strong emotional experience (good or bad), you can consider yourself a success.

    Now it’s time to go out and do it again, and again, and again . . . keep on smiling!

    About the Author:
    Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has 30 years experience in photography (
    www.betterphototips.com). As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective. His photo eBook “Your Creative Edge” proves creativity can be taught. Today, he shares his wealth of knowledge with the world through his website.


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    Friday, June 24, 2016


    See how Photography can play tricks on the mind.

    How do you make something look bigger when it really isn't?  Or How do you make something look smaller, when you know it isn't?  Have you ever had a situation where you had a portrait and the people were just oddly different sizes?  Or, how about just having fun with people and objects.  This gets to be just fun photography.  Try this some time:

    Now, after looking at this, I have a special video found on YouTube that shows how this is done on some of the famous movies we have all watched.  Like Harry Potter, The Lord of the Rings,  Game of Thrones and many others.  This will show you how it is done, and we can apply this to our own photography as well.
    Really, you need to go to the above link and check it out.

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    Thursday, June 23, 2016


    A Look Back at the Intimate, Otherworldly Photography of Fan Ho

    I am sad to say that the world of photography lost one of its true masters this past Sunday. Chinese photographer Fan Ho, known for his intimate street photographs of 1950’s Hong Kong, died of pneumonia at the age of 84. His photographs are more than simply beautiful; they show an understanding of light and composition is truly unparalleled. I cannot write anything that does justice to work like this, so I will leave with one of Fan Ho’s quotes – among the most beautiful sentiments I have heard from a photographer: “I put my whole life into a single photograph.”

    Rest in peace to a true artist.

    FAN HO,
    One of the first in his field known to be the first "Street Photographer".  Truly showed the way of how people lived in Hong Kong.  His photos told stories of how the people lived in everyday life in Hong Kong.  He was a master in his field.  He will be missed.  He died Sunday of Pneumonia at the age of 84.  At least we can remember him forever by his great pictures.

    Thanks for viewing this blog and remember to please share with other photographers.

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